The short pieces should be ~ 4-1/4″ and the long pieces should be ~8-7/8″, cut the pieces to fit your wooden jewelry box. Rip the pieces to 2″ wide and then cut the pieces to fit in the box. I resawed some walnut to 1/4″ on the bandsaw and sanded it flat to 3/16″ on the drum sander. The last piece of the jewelry box is the lining which serves as decoration as well a lip for the lid. Install the Lining on the DIY Jewelry Box You can also flatten the parts on a sheet of sandpaper stuck to your tablesaw. Feeding the box in on an angle helps reduce your chances of snipe. I also did this to the underside of the top. I got burning on the top edge of the jewelry box, so I took it to the drum sander to remove the burn marks and get everything level. This is the method for doing it on a tablesaw, you can also do this on a bandsaw, you’ll just have a little more clean up. To do this safely, cut the short ends first and then tape in some 1/8″ shims in the kerfs to hold the wooden box together while you cut the long sides. Cut through the jewelry box 3/4″ down from the top on all 4 sides. Yes, I realize this a wooden box with no way to get inside…patience my friend. After the box is dry sand the sides to 220 grit before the next step. Apply glue to the miters and then “fold up” the box, inserting the top and bottom panels into the grooves.Ĭlamping the glue up with a web clamp makes this much easier, but f-clamps work well also. By cutting the sides from the same piece you can achieve a continuous grain flow around the whole box.Īssemble the jewelry box by laying the side pieces end to end in a straight line and taping the joints on the outside. Do some test cuts in scrap before making the grooves to be sure your top and bottom panels fit snugly.Ĭut the sides to length, 5″ and 10″, with miters on each end. They are located 3/16″ from the top and bottom. The grooves are 1/4″ wide and 3/16″ deep. Next, cut the grooves in the sides of the DIY jewelry box for the top and bottom panels. I resawed the pieces on the bandsaw to get two pieces 16″ long and just under 1/2″ then took them to the drum sander and brought them down to 3/8″ in thickness. I cut mine to 16″ long to be split in two next. You’ll need two 10″ piece and two 5″ pieces. Make the Sides of the DIY Wooden Jewelry Boxįor the sides, cut your pieces into 3-1/8″ wide strips. If you aren’t using resawn lumber or glue ups, cut your top panel and bottom panel for your wooden jewelry box to 9-1/2″ by 4-1/2″. It’s easy to get right down to a specific dimension quickly.Īfter they were flat I glued the pieces together into 2 panels and then cut them to size. This is one of the best uses for the drum sander in my book. Next I put them through the 19-38 drum sander to get down to a final dimension of 1/4″. I resawed the walnut into 2 pieces on the bandsaw then cut those in half to finish with 4 pieces. If you are just using a solid one piece panel or 1/4″ plywood this will be very easy. I used a larger piece of walnut with some nice figure to make my tops and bottom panels. Make the Top and Bottom Panels of the Jewelry Boxįirstly you’ll make the top and bottom panels. I used the maple for the sides of the box and walnut for the top, bottom, and lining for a nice contrast. So I cut material for two boxes which you will see some parts for both boxes in the pictures. I had this piece of curly maple with amazing figure I’ve been looking to use. So you can buy nice hardwoods for the box and not break the bank. The best part is this build takes very little wood. I also have jewelry box plans for beginners above so make sure to check those out. You can easily adjust the size to any dimensions you’d like and use these same methods. I like the 2:1 ratio look on the box and this size seems to be just big enough to be substantial, but not too big. I made the wooden jewelry box 10″ x 5″ and 3″ high.
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